Thursday, December 31, 2015

An Encounter ...

  When I got into Berlin I took a bus to the Ostbahnof, which was the old main train station in East Germany.  On the bus ride I saw a lot of Turkish people and enjoyed the German architecture.  Seeing both filled me with nostalgia for my old days in Berlin and Istanbul.  I got off at the Ostbanhof and passed the Mauergalerie, which was an outdoor art mural at the site of the Berlin wall.  I walked across the river Spree and into the courtyard of the Kopi.   The past was flooding back to me. I then arrived at the Reiche 63a and started unpacking.

  I wrote the guys from RASH Berlin and I got a response from them almost immediately and they told me that they wanted to meet me the next night in Fredrichschain.  The next night I met them at the tram station at Frankfurter Tor.  When I got off I saw Patty, Stuhle, Tomek, Res, happy from Freiberg, and Amin.  They had a bottle of vodka with them and we drank together until we got to a small party in a squat where they were playing electronic music.  After a while we got bored and some of the Rash guys decided that they wanted to go to the Freiboiter, which was a skinhead pub in Freidrichschain.  The reason they wanted to go there was because they knew there would be some greyzone skinheads, which are skinheads who are not Nazis but who are open and friendly to right wing ideas and music.  I did not really know what was going on so I stayed outside with Res, who was Stuhle’s girlfriend. When we got there, someone was having a birthday party so there were about 100 greyzone skinheads there. Since the RASH guys were vastly outnumbered, we left.

  I met up with the guys from RASH one more time when I was in Berlin. Los Fastidios, an Italian antifascist streetpunk band, was going to play in Potsdam, a city outside of Berlin.  When I got to Potsdam, I met with the guys and helped them set up. I talked a lot with Tomek who is from Poland his girlfriend’s brother who lived in Boston.  I was impressed with all the antifascist banners in the concert hall. 

 After we had set up, Los Fastidios arrived we went [KG1] with them to the Babelsberg 03 game which was before the concert.  Babelsberg 03 was a soccer team in the North East division in Potsdam Germany and it was one of the few teams in German that was strictly antifascist and supports left wing politics. The atmosphere at the game was fantastic. It was the first time I had experienced the energy and excitement when antifascism is mixed with sports.  After the game we went to the concert. I felt comradery with everyone there. The place exploded with energy as Los Fastidios played.

   I was about to leave for Prague when I heard that Oi Poloi was going to play the week I was leaving.  Oi Poloi was my favorite band at that time. They were an antifascist and anarchist oi band that had gotten into crust punk in their latter years.  I had never seen them and I simply had to go.  My TEFL program was going to start on Monday but I was expected to be there on Saturday.  I wrote them and asked them if I could come on Sunday night and they said ok. 

  Oi Poloi were going to play at a three day punk fest called Resist to Exist, which was the biggest punk festival in Germany.  On the first day of the festival, I left the Reiche 63ª and went to the Lidl and bought two boxes of wine.  At this point, after going to many punk bars and shows in Berlin and having no one talk to me, I resolved that I was not going to try to meet anyone but I was just going to enjoy the music by myself.  I boarded the U bahn at Kottbusser Tor and I got off at Waschauer strasse to transfer to the S bahn.  At the S bahn station there were two punk girls there with red hair.  I was resolved in my intention not to talk to anyone and I just drank beer and listened to my iPod.

  At the festival I walked around a bit and checked out some music.  I then heard that the Autonomads were about to play.  The Autonomads were a dub punk band I had heard about and I was really excited to see them.  I went to the front of the stage and danced. After they played, I sat down by myself and drank some wine.  I was sitting there a bit when Lilly, one of the girls who I had seen at the Waschauer station with red hair, came up to me and said something in German.  She wore the kind of punk clothes a teenager would wear and wore glasses that obscured her eyes but I could tell that she was very beautiful and really kind.  I had studied German years ago at university but my German was quite rusty so I told her that I didn’t speak German.  She could speak a little English, but not very much.  She told me to come over to her and her group of friends and we tried to communicate but her English was quite poor and my German was even poorer.  In the end, none of that really mattered; there was something between us that went beyond the bounds of language and we both knew it.  Within a half an hour, we were kissing and she was a really good kisser.  We laid in the grass and kissed and made out for a good two hours before we returned to her  friends and drank wine with them until I wandered of to watch some other bands and then I returned to her again.

  At the end of the night, we were both quite drunk and I wanted to convince Lilly to come home with me. There was a reggae nighter at Tommyhaus, a squat in Berlin, which was quite near to my house and all the people from RASH Berlin would be there. I told her that we should go together and that she could stay with me in my room in Reiche 63a afterwards. Her friend Anya tried to convince Lilly not to go with me but Lilly really wanted to.  Lilly told me later that she trusted me from the beginning.  We then got on the S bahn and headed towards Tommyhaus, kissing and caressing the whole time
  When we went to Tommyhaus we ran into the people from RASH immediately and they greeted me and I introduced them to Lilly.  The rocksteady music was nice, but it was so crowded there was no place to sit.  After a while, we were more into each other than the music and we decided to go back to my place at the Reiche 63a.

  We walked the six flights of stairs until we got to my room at the top floor of the Reiche 63a.  We listened to Black Flag and Casa di Chihuahua, which is a country folk band of punks.  We talked, kissed, and made out.  I started sucking her tits.  We then fucked and she was really animalistic and she scratched my back like she never did again.  There was a raw passion between us like I never experienced before or since.

   After we had sex the first time, the man who lived next door banged on and opened our door. We were completely naked. The music wasn’t that loud, but we apologized.  We then turned down the music and proceeded to make out again and the guy banged on the door and the guy opened again [KG2] and we were still naked.  Lilly said she thought he was a pervert because he knew we were naked and he wanted to see us again.  We then turned off the lights and music and we had sex once again.

  I had previously told Lilly everything about me and she accepted it.  At this time I was 32 and she was 20 years old.  I told her that I had thought for long time that no one would be attracted to me because of my disability and that I lost my virginity at age 27 to a sex worker.  Without her glasses on her eyes were a stunning green and she was extraordinary beautiful.  She accepted me totally and thought I was hot.  We feel asleep in each other’s arms and it was wonderful.

  We woke up to Bavarian music playing in the courtyard and she said what the hell why was Bavarian music playing, and I said it’s from your homeland right, she nudged me and said no she wasn’t from Bavaria, but Thuringia.  I kept on teasing her and we both laughed.  We then kissed and stared into each other’s eyes.  She told that she had to get back her friend’s house and that she needed to call her ex-boyfriend Tomas and tell him what had happened because she told him everything.  This sounded a little bit strange to me but I was grateful for the night we had shared.  We parted ways and we were going to meet each other later in the day at the festival.

  I went to the festival and I saw a couple of bands until I found her with about 20 other people.  We kissed but I felt awkward with all those people around.  It definitely didn’t feel as nice as the day before and I didn’t feel like talking to all those people.  I walked off and watched a couple of bands by myself. I came back to her and we watched Oi Poloi together.   After the show was over, we walked to the train. We were with these German guys and I thought they were talking about me.  I accused them of talking shit about me and she said that they weren’t.  On the train she caressed and kissed me to calm me down.  I was going to Prague the next day and I asked me to come visit me in Prague but I never thought that she would take me up on the offer.


Tuesday, December 22, 2015

Return to New York: Part I

  It is at this point that I must fast forward a bit, with the promise that I will return to the narrative I started in Istanbul.  After having spent two months squatting in Berlin, and beginning a PhD program in Belfast, I decided to return to New York in the summer of 2009.  I left Queens University Belfast because although my supervisor, disability studies scholar Margrit Schildrick was great to work with, the school did not meet my needs . I found Belfast too small and I was out of control.  I accepted an offer from the New School‘s PhD program in philosophy and I got ready to move back to New York.

  My experiences in New York are not the focus of this narrative, but nonetheless I must outline a few of them because they were very important to the reason I set out travelling again in 2011.  When I got to New York, I went immediately to meet my friend Halil, who is a very wise but somewhat reclusive man, at the Pakistani Tea House in Tribeca, New York.  The Pakistani Tea House had been one of my favorite places to eat in New York, and I had spent many long nights there drinking chai and discussing existential questions with Halil.  I caught up with Halil and then I went to move in to an intentional urban community I had found on Craigslist before I left Ireland.  This turned out to be a completely disastrous experience. Later moved to Passout Records, which was a punk rock record store in Williamsburg Brooklyn. 

  At this time at the New School I had the privilege of attending lectures by many prominent philosophic figures such as Simon Critchley, Judith Butler, Jay Bernstein and Richard Bernstein.  It was during this period that my mother’s cancer, which had been in remission, took a turn for the worse.  My mother had mesothelioma, which is an aggressive cancer of the lymph nodes caused by exposure to asbestos, and this cancer is almost always fatal.  I was shaken up really hard by this news.  My mother was definitely the strongest person I have ever known and  I  learned to be strong in my life because of her example.  Throughout my life, my mother had encouraged me to be strong enough to do my best and to have the courage to follow my heart and be myself.  After I had my accident at age three (where I suffered a head injury the caused my cerebral Palsy) and was in a coma for a month I was diagnosed with a 90 percent chance of never walking and talking again. It was she who refused to  follow the doctors suggestions to put me in the kind of institution were people don’t improve and it was she took me home and re-taught me everything herself.

 When I went home for Christmas, I fully expected my mother to die in a couple of weeks.  I tried to make the most of the time I had left with her.  The holiday was nice but it was sad.  I tried to be strong for her, but I felt like I was falling apart.
  After I returned to New York I got some really good news.  My mother’s cancer had gone into full remission and she had no detectable traces of cancer.  She then decided to move to Belize and I welcomed this decision and supported it.  My mother had always wanted to travel more and if anyone deserved a new adventure and some relaxing time in the sun, she did.

  I both loved and hated New York.  I loved the pulse of the city, with its rich multiculturalism and unceasing energy, and I loved that in New York you had the possibility to have truly surprising experiences at any moment.  I hated on the other hand, the extreme pressure to succeed that drove New York, with its hyper-capitalism, which seemed to exert a physical pressure on everyone who lived in the city.  Being back in New York, I felt that I had lost all the confidence that I had gained in my sexuality during my European travels and I was very lonely.  In New York I went on a couple craigslist dates but nothing really panned out except I met  a woman that I dated and had sex with a couple times but she turned out to be too needy and possessive for me to handle.

  I was pretty lonely but I had a life that I loved.  I would attend lectures and write papers that would open me up to new possibility of thinking.  I was increasingly drawn to political philosophy that focused on issues of social justice, responsibility and community. The philosophers that were important to me at this time were Walter Benjamin and Hannah Arendt, Derrida, Judith Butler and Simon Critchley.

 At this time I was also heavily involved in the punk scene and I would go to a concert almost any chance I had.  It was during this period of my life that I made the most friends, and I have kept in touch with many of them.  I would go to many different kinds of punk show in New York and I was friends with a lot of people. I would go to New York Hardcore shows, crust and raw punk show and even folk punk shows.  The crowd, however, that I felt the must affinity with was the Latino political punk scene.  In New York there were punks from all over Latin America from Mexico, Colombia, Peru, Puerto Rico and Ecuador and they were all united.  I found the punks in this scene to be the most welcoming, positive, have the best sense of humor and to take politics most seriously.

   In late May a catastrophe struck.  My brother, we found out, had become addicted to heroin.  My mom immediately flew back to Oregon and in in a routine checkup she found out that her cancer had aggressively returned.  I immediately took a leave of absence from the New School and flew out to Oregon.  We had a nice visit and I tried to be strong for her.  I did not know how long she would live and the prognosis was not good.  Nonetheless I held on to the false hope that she could beat it and that she would go into remission again.  I returned to New York and planned to visit later in the summer.

  During the summer of 2010, I was a complete wreck.  I was wasted all the time and was getting into a lot of fights.  I was completely broke, living off of dumpstered bagels  and it was oppressively hot and muggy.  My mom had been moved to my sister Laurie’s house in Nebraska and it was clear she was getting worse.  I called her nearly every day.  Thing went on like this for weeks when my Laurie informed me that my mother had taken a turn for the worse and that she only had a week at most. I was absolutely desperate and completely broke.   I asked my sister, who had a little bit of money, if she could fly me out but she refused.  My friend Dani agreed to help me out.  I then asked my sister if I could stay with her but she said it was not possible.  I called my Aunt Laura and asked her if she could put me up in a hotel. She agreed to do this and I would leave in a few days.

  This was the last time I would ever see my mother and I knew it.  My mother was bed ridden at this time, so I just sat by her bedside and talked with her, watched TV with her, fed her and held her hand.  She would make jokes, and we would talk about memories, and I told her how much I loved her and appreciated her.  She was on a lot of drugs at this point and the line between reality and fantasy sometimes got blurry.  When we were watching a game show, she asked me if we could go down the stairs to get closer to the stage.  I tried to savor the time as best as I could and let her know all the love I had for her.

  I left early in the morning after four days and got on my flight to New York.  Somehow I found the strength to spend the flight finishing philosophy papers that I couldn’t finish in the spring.  When I got to New York, I went to Dani’s apartment in the Lower East Side.  I did not want to spend the night alone and I really needed to be with a friend. Dani and I were sitting drinking and talking when Dani received a call from my sister as my phone had stopped working just before I left for Nebraska.  My sister told me that my mom had passed away that afternoon.  I wept bitterly and Dani tried to calm me down. We decided the best thing to do was to go to my favorite bar, the Mars Bar. Dani came with me and the bartender Amy who is like a sister to me gave me free drinks all night.

 During the five days between my mom’s death and the funeral in Salem I completely lost it. I was completely suicidal and was having panic attacks in the street. I felt disembodied and unstable.  After the punk’s picnic that weekend in Greenpoint Brooklyn I drank too much and I passed out on the sidewalk in the middle Manhattan Avenue in Greenpoint.  Luckily my Russian Rastafarian friend Alex found me, took me home in a taxi, and smoked cigarettes and talked with me until I calmed down.
  When I went back for my mom’s funeral to Oregon, I stayed with my Mom’s husband because he was also losing his mind and I felt he needed to be with someone, and because he was the only person in the family that I knew would have something to drink at the house . It was nice to see everybody but it was very sad.  My sister Laurie brought her family from Nebraska, my sister Lizzie was days from giving birth. My father’s birthday was in the same time I was there.  My Aunt Laura, who I was very close to, also came to the funeral.  I don’t really know what else to say about the funeral.  It was the last time I saw anyone in the family and it was good to see everyone, but I was overwhelmed by irreplaceable loss.

  When I got back to New York, I was dangerously suicidal, depressed, erratic and full of rage. I felt that I had lost my whole world and the one person who truly understood me was gone forever.  People would get angry at me for not moving on and I would get furious with them and stop being friends with them.  I do not regret this.  I did not need friends who would be there in the good times and would not be with me in a time of crisis.  Life has moments of devastating loss and mourning can often take a very long time and the only way I could possibly bear it was by acknowledging the greatness of the loss and seeking to hold on to my mother’s memory.  I did not want to forget and thought that getting over it too quickly would be choosing to forget her.







Return to New York: part II

   I may well have tried to kill myself or ended up in a mental hospital if I didn’t have a brief but affirming month with Diana from Slovakia.  I was falling apart, but I forced myself to be active and every Saturday afternoon I would volunteer and attend the ABC No Rio hardcore matinees.  ABC No Rio was located in the Lower East Side and every Saturday for the last 20 years they would have concerts that you could hear bands ranging from oi!, hardcore, and crust punk.  There were good people who hung out there and one of them was my good friend Joey who was in the political punk band All Torn Up.

  In between the sets of the band, Joey would lead political discussions in the backyard and during one of these discussions Diana was there. Diana had luminous blue eyes and a radiant smile. She was had travelled to New York for one month to visit her brother and she was very excited to be there.  We hit it off immediately and after the concert we wandered around the East Village and drank.  We ended up in Tompkins Square Park and it wasn’t long before we started kissing. I told her about my mother’s death, my experiences with my disability and my lack of romantic experience. She told me that she had been raped three years ago and had suffered a severe depression because of it and that she had not been interested in anyone since then until she met me.

  We really had a great time together going to all the DIY and punk places in New York. We went to C Squat, which was a squat in the Lower East side that has been around for 20 years and where members of Leftover Crack and other New York City bands lived.  We went to  the Lake, which was a DIY space in Brooklyn that also had great punks show as well as rocksteady shows and d.j. nights-.  We also went to some other places in Brooklyn and we went to the Mars Bar as well  We shared interests in punk and anarchism and she had a strong and fiery energy that was in line with mine.  We would often make out but we only tried to have sex once, but it was too much for her so we ended up pleasuring each other in other ways.  Her presence in September really helped me and I hope I helped her too.  Before she flew back to Slovakia, we got drunk in a bar where my friend Lucie from Belfast was working. I then went with her to the airport and we both cried.  We tried to stay in touch but she became very busy with school.  In her absence, my grief over my mother’s death returned in full force and she got angry at me because of it, and I in turn got angry because of her reaction and we didn’t talk for some time.

  In October there was an incident with Latino Nazis from New Jersey that led to the formation of an antifascist boxing gym that I participated in.  I do not want to go into the issues surrounding the specific threat that prompted the formation of the gym, nor do I want to get into certain internal conflicts which existed in the group. This gym had an extreme positive and life altering effect on me, and I will describe how it affected me below.

  After the threat from the Latino Nazis, Hagler who was the founder of RASH NYC (Red and Anarchist Skinheads) which was the first RASH group worldwide called a meeting of antifascists and proposed that he could lead an MMA class for self-defense so we would be better able to defend ourselves if a threat arose.  A group of the people at that meeting decided to join that class and another group didn’t.  The group that decided to join included punks, skinheads, and people into hip hop. Every Sunday we would meet for about three hours four hours and Hagler would train us in boxing and MMA and  have us do conditioning exercises.  Hagler had been the sparring partner of a professional MMA fighter and was an extremely good coach.    We bonded like brothers and we would we would often go out to eat Mexican food or pizza together, were would crack jokes and Hagler would impart his wisdom from being an active antifascist for 20 years.  It was extremely inspiring and it impacted who I am today.  During the time I was involved in the gym, I felt healthier and I felt a very strong sense of comradery. 

  Despite that boxing gym being such a positive influence, I knew that I could not go on being a PhD student in New York.  I was really hurting and the pain just would not go away.  Being a philosophy grad student involves long periods of reflection on the complexities of life, and through the aim of philosophy is to produce arguments that hold a universal value, for me the only way to do write philosophy was by dealing with the personal and I could not do it anymore.  I missed my mother and I was a complete romantic failure and the pressures of New York were driving me crazy.

  Going to Istanbul had really helped me deal with the insecurities I had about sex. I was mocked as a child because of my disability I had really felt undesirable.  The experience I had with Yasmin in Istanbul  had really gave me a confidence that I didn’t have before and this endured the whole time I was travelling.  Since being back in New York, and enduring the harrowing experience of my mom dying of cancer, I felt like I had definitely regressed.  The confidence that I gained was gone, I was broken, and I really felt that my disability was a hindrance for me finding a partner in the social climate of New York.  I decided that I needed to go as far away as possible.  I decided to go to Indonesia because I heard that it had a great punk and antiracist skinhead scene and it really sounded intriguing.  I had inherited a little money from my mother and I decided it was better to use it to change my life instead of spending it on bullshit.  I decided I wanted to teach English in Indonesia, but I wasn’t going to do it like I did in Turkey.  I needed a recognized certificate so I could get a better job.  I looked on the internet and I found a Trinity Cert TESOL program in Prague. I applied and was accepted.

  My situation with my roommate Chris had also deteriorated rapidly.  Chris ran the Lake, a d.i.y. punk venue in New York and was also part of the boxing club.  Our relationship deteriorated because he would repeatedly disrespect and berate me, and I would react in drunken rage.  At this point I was pretty extreme but it was not unprovoked and I do not regret it.  Because of this situation, I decided to leave earlier than I had planned and stay two weeks in Berlin at a squat I had stayed before, the Reiche 63A.
The decision to go to Berlin ended up sending me on the four year journey that I am still on now.  Traveling had changed my life before and I felt that I would help me again.  I was not wrong.  Within weeks I would meet someone who would affect me a great deal, and with whom I would spend four yearS trying to overcome borders to be with.





Friday, November 20, 2015

Bulgarian Chronicles

   As soon as I had settled in to the hostel and met everybody, I immediately I got on the internet and tried to figure out what I should do.  I wrote my boss from the company I had been working for in Istanbul, I wrote my punk friends from Turkey on Noizine in a post entitled “Banned  from Turkey, Stranded in Bulgaria , I wrote Kathrin, and  I wrote Yasmin.

  My punk friends from Istanbul wrote me back immediately.  They were all very concerned and were trying to figure out how to help me.  Yaprak said that her mother was a lawyer and that she would have her mother see if there was anything she could do.  Yaprak also wrote that Poldi from the German antifascist oi! band the Forbidden Kings might be able to send me a list of the squats in Berlin from his contacts with Rash Berlin.  I had met Poldi at a concert the Forbidden Kings did in Istanbul. I was low on money and I knew that I could not afford to stay in hostels the whole time I travelled. Besides, Berlin sounded amazing.  I thanked Yaprak for her help and Yaprak told me that she would send me the list when Poldi sent it to her. When I heard back from my boss in Istanbul, he told me that I was not fired and that he was doing everything he could to try to help me.  I decided that I needed to make one last attempt to get back into Turkey and that I would leave the next day.

I went out for a walk in the city. The Eastern European architecture of Sofia was a mix of Orthodox churches and Soviet era buildings and the way people dressed reminded me of a 1980s Eastern European movie.   After I wandered the streets a bit, I returned to the Art Hostel, packed my bag, went to the bus station and bought a ticket to Istanbul.  I had little hope that my mission would work out, but I knew I had to try it. 

 On the bus I drank a couple of beers, listened to music, read and slept.  When we were at the border, I waited with apprehension as the Turkish border police checked everyone’s passports.  The bus ride had taken 8 hours and I was not looking forward to doing it again.  When they got to my passport and ran it through the computer, they told me that I had been banned from Turkey for 5 years and the only way to appeal this was to go to the Turkish Embassy in Washington D.C.  The last thing I wanted to do at that point was to curtail my journey and go back to the United States. I didn’t have the resources to do that even if I wanted to.  I got on a bus going back to Sofia and slept through most of the trip.

  Once I was back in Sofia, I wrote Craig and my boss David and told them what had happened.  Craig wrote me some disturbing news.  Someone from English Time , which was the parent company of the English school that I had  worked for, had gone to my room and threw out most of my stuff. Fortunately Craig had managed to salvage some of my stuff. He said since he was also due to make a border run in a couple of the days that he would bring it to me in Sofia even though it was 8 hours out of his way.

  Upon hearing this from Craig, I immediately wrote David and I asked him what the hell was going on.  He said that someone above him had told an employee to throw out my stuff because they thought it was garbage. He told me that he was outraged that this had happened.  He also told me that they had found marijuana in my room and that this was grounds for my dismissal.  This was impossible because I had never smoked marijuana in my room.  Marijuana usually makes me withdrawn and paranoid and I much prefer alcohol.
  It was obvious that English Time had made up this story about pot in my room to dismiss me without a problem.  David then told me that the school would give me my back pay, but the Western Union payment was too expensive and in the end I got nothing. 

  Two days later I went to the bus station to meet Craig.  I arrived at the bus station at 8:30 and he was due to arrive at 9.  9 o’clock came and went and he still wasn’t there.  I paced about a bit and smoked some cigarettes.  I was worried that he wouldn’t come, but I would stay there all night if I had to.  At 10:30, he finally arrived. We took a cab to the hostel, he put his stuff in his room and we went to the bar downstairs.  The bar was full with the guests and the locals and it had a good energy to it that night 

  We decided to leave the bar. We went upstairs where there were couches and we could have a decent talk.  Craig had  a bottle of Jack Daniels that he had bought at the duty free shop . He opened it up and we drank Jack and Coke and smoked cigarettes.  It was really good to be able to talk to my old drinking buddy again.  We talked about old times and what the others in Istanbul were up to and we talked about what I should do now that I had been set adrift in Bulgaria.  At that point I wasn’t sure what to do and I needed advice. 

  Craig told me that I needed a plan or otherwise I would just drift. I certainly recognized this danger.  I told Craig about my idea to go squat in Berlin for two months and then to go on to my PhD program in Belfast.  He said he thought it was a good idea. It was at that moment that I decided that that was what I was going to do.
  I warned Craig about Gokdil . I told him about the horrible things that had happened to me.  He told me that he also thought the company was fucked up and that a friend of his was going to get him a new job.  I asked him if he could stay in Sofia a little bit longer.  He said that he would like to, but that he was really scared that the same thing that happened to me would happen to him and that he had to get back to work.
  It had been an excellent night.  We both knew that we probably wouldn’t see each other for a long time and we wished each other well.  We finished off the bottle of whiskey, smoked our last cigarette and went to bed.   The next morning I went with him to the bus station in a taxi and I never saw him again.

  So my plan was definitely to go to the squats in Berlin but I needed to wait for Yaprak to get the information for me from Poldi.  I therefore bided my time in Sofia, wandering around the streets (which were very confusing to me because the street signs were written in Cyrillic), going to cafes and drinking espresso and smoking Karilla cigarettes from Greece (my favorite in the world) and hanging out in the hostel bar in the evenings.  This routine was pleasant but I wanted more; I wanted to check out the local punk scene.  I looked for a Sofia punk MySpace page and I found one.  There were two shows coming up in the next week. 
    The next evening there was a show. I got directions from a girl who worked at the hostel.  It was in walking distance so I set off on foot.  At first it was hard to find but eventually I found a group of punks and hardcore kids standing outside drinking and I knew that I was in the right place.

  The bands inside were very energetic and played 1980s style hardcore punk.  Even though it was very cold, most people were standing outside drinking beer and vodka they bought from the local corner market.  People were very curious about me because they didn’t get a lot of foreigners at their punk shows, but almost no one spoke English.  Finally I found a punk who spoke English and I started talking to him.  He was very friendly and he told he liked my Subhumans T shirt I was wearing but he told me to be careful because there were a lot of Nazis at the concert and the Subhumans were a left wing band.  He also told me the pub the bands were playing at was owned by a Nazi. I was a bit thrown back by this and I asked him if the punks in Sofia hung out with Nazis.  He said that he and his friends didn’t, but that a lot of punks did.  We started talking about antifa and punk. He told me that he used to be involved in antifascist work in Sofia but that he had stopped because it was too dangerous and the Nazi problem in Sofia too great.  I hung out with this guy and his friends a little bit more and then I walked back to the hostel.  When I got back to the hostel, I told a girl what had happened and she said that she didn’t like blacks either.  I was disgusted.

  I would see Nazis all around Bulgaria and I had to be careful.  One time I meet this girl on Okcupid because I wanted to meet new people and I was a bit lonely in Sofia.  She had green hair, listened to indie music and she was in love with everything that had to do with Japan.  She seemed pretty interesting and we agreed to meet for coffee.  When I showed up, she was with her friends. One of them had a Blood and Honor dog tag. Blood and Honor is an international organization that promotes Neo-nazism in music. It was started in the late 80s in the U.K. by Nicky Crane and Ian Stewart Donaldson of the Neo-Nazi band Screwdriver.  I was shocked  that her friend was wearing this dog tag and very uncomfortable.  We then left her friends. I asked her how she could be friends with someone who was a Nazi.  She answered that they were friends since high school and he had his beliefs and she had hers. 

 Bulgaria was a very homogeneous country with the main minorities being Roma and Turkish communities that have lived in Bulgaria for centuries and immigrants from Turkey and other parts of Eastern Europe.  Nazis target those who they do not understand because they seek to blame the problems in their lives on the vulnerable.  Attacks of hate have caused a lot of suffering for the Roma and Turkish communities of Bulgaria and many people have been killed.   I felt that it was not appropriate to just look the other way, when the suffering caused by hate was real.

  I thought that it was really awful that Nazism found its way into the punk scene because it is the exact opposite of what I feel punk is about. In my view, Punk is about being free and working for a better world where everyone gets to live a full and expressive life.  Punk should celebrate differences and encourage diversity.  When punk exploded in the late 70s, it was born in the context of a multicultural Britain and it blossomed in this context.  The Clash incorporated reggae into their songs and covered  roots reggae and rocksteady songs. Also, John Lyndon’s second band P.I.L. and the Slits were heavily influenced by dub.  Furthermore reggae and punk artists played together under the banner of Rock Against Racism.

   After all the contacts with Nazis I did not go to a concert in Sofia again until I heard that the New York hardcore band Madball was going to play.  I had never seen them in New York and I thought it would really fun seeing them in Sofia so I decided to go.  The concert was in a larger venue and there were 100 punks standing outside.  I walked into the bar of the venue. It was completely empty so I went outside again.  I saw the guy I had seen at the last punk show and I began talking to him and his friends and hanging out.  Everybody was buying vodka and beer at the mini market and no one was buying anything at the bar.  It was an hour before the show.  Everybody was drinking really fast and was going back and forth to the minimarket.  I was doing my best to keep up but I was having trouble.  I went to see the first band and they were pretty good. After they finished, I went back to the mini market.  By the time Madball started, my head was spinning which hadn’t happened to me for years.  In the end I just ended up sitting on the stairs in the concert hall and  I tried  to listen to Madball even though I couldn’t really enjoy myself.  I learned then and there that I should never try to keep pace when drinking in a Slavic country.

  I had been in Bulgaria for one month and while it was interesting, I was really uncomfortable with the large Nazi presence in Sofia.  I felt stuck and lonely.  The whole time I was in Sofia I was waiting for Yaprak to get the info on the squats from Poldi, and when she finally did I knew it was time to leave.  I decided that on my way to Berlin I would go to Budapest which was a city that always fascinated me.  The day I got the information I went to the train station and bought a ticket to Budapest for the next day.












Monday, October 19, 2015

This is something I feel compelled to write. It is the story of the struggle I faced and the journey I began when I first left the United States for an extended period, seven years ago.  It is a narrative of travel, punk rock, mind opening and crazy experiences, and the struggle to find my sexuality as a person with Cerebral Palsy.  The struggles with sexuality that people with disabilities often face is rarely discussed. When it is discussed, most people ignore it and dismiss it as not a real issue. It is for this reason that I feel that I must write my story.

  Growing up I always felt out of place.  I was a very lonely child and as I grew up the kids at school would always call me cripple and make fun of me because of my disability.    From very early on, I could see that there was something very wrong with mainstream society. The way that it values money and conformity above all else, and how it mocks and excludes that which is different from it made me sick.  I think that my disability gave me an awareness of the wrongness of mainstream society from very early on and I am thankful for that.

  My natural response to how I was treated in Middle school and High School was to rebel, and I have never ceased rebelling.  In Middle school, the rebellion took the form of skipping school, forming a fake gang with my friends called the Hardcore Hoods, drinking 40s, and shoplifting.  As I have grown older, my rebellion has gotten more intelligent and conscious, while still retaining some of the initial craziness.  I am thankful for my youthful rebellion and in some sense I remain faithful to its drive to refuse to conform and to question everything. All my life I have tried to imagine how life could be different than it is now and I have tried to work for a more emancipatory way for people to relate to each other.

    One of the most difficult things growing up was dealing with issues of sexuality  Of course this is true for all people, but with people with disability we are not even seen as potentially desirable at that time of our lives, because disability runs so counter to the false drive of bodily perfection so important to the teenage years.  As a teenager I was always rejected by girls, other students constantly mocked my body, and sex seemed to be a rarified and impossibly out of reach thing to me.  Of course, it did not help that my whole family (except me!) converted to a very conservative religion (Mormonism) when I was a teenager.   As a person with a disability, people did not see me, and consequently I did not see myself, as a potential sexual being.  I came to see myself as others saw me. Because I was always rejected, I did not think I was worthy of being a potential romantic partner. Because people always called me a cripple, I saw myself as a cripple.  I saw myself as someone who was undesirable and unattractive.  I rarely even hugged anyone and I was not kissed until I was twenty and that was not repeated until years later.

  Although I knew there was something wrong with the world, I also began to suspect that there was something wrong with me.  I felt that I needed to investigate more into the mysteries of life and to try to change my thinking.  Spiritually I first got into Rastafarianism, and then orthodox Christianity and Sufism, a mystical form of Islam.  Philosophically, what was important to me in the beginning was Dostoyevsky, Kierkegaard, Berdyaev and Heidegger .   I was drawn to these thinkers  because they all stressed that one should find one’s own path in life by facing ones fears and choosing one’s own way, despite what others may think.  My experiences with spirituality and my early philosophical influences were very important to me and I cannot disavow them even through at some point they did not help me answer the questions I needed to answer.

  Fast forward to my last year of my philosophy Masters program in New York city 2007-2008.  I was living in Yonkers and going to SUNY Stony Brook Manhattan in New York City.  I lived in a Sufi house with a couple of lovely people, a couple of sociopaths, and a really nice woman with some mental issues.  None of us paid rent, which makes it possible to live there on my disability money.  I was deeply engaged with the Sufi path, but the narrative of looking into yourself and opening your heart to solve all your problems was wearing thin.  I was getting into Derrida, Foucault, Levinas, and Nietzsche.  I was looking into disability philosophically with some academic success.  My mom got cancer and recovered for the first time .  I lost my virginity to a Sex worker and went to another sex worker a couple of times because I was  so lonely and hung up about still being a virgin at 27.  I thought that I would kill myself if I did not lose my virginity soon.  I needed to get it out of the way. 

  In in the midst of all this, I came to the realization that for me the way forward was NOT to keep looking within but to transform myself by being open to different experiences, and being open to what others could teach me.  For me what was important was transformation through action, being aware of the difference and the suffering of others and not trying whitewash the uniqueness of other people’s experiences by trying to say everything is the same .  I believed that it is only by realizing that different people have different experiences that we can learn from other people.  I was being open to as many experiences as possible during this time.  During this time I got my first tattoo, Radical Affirmation!

    David Bowie was really important to me during this period.  To me he was the epitome of self transformation and experiencing life in all of its modalities.  I got re-involved in the punk scene which was important to me in my youth.  Punk to me was about being raw and real, building community, and trying to make the world a better place.  Even if punk did not always live up to this ideal, I thought this is the true essence of punk.  At a punk concert I felt free, energized, allowed to be myself.

   During this period, I also began working out and I began to transform myself bodily.  My right side had been very weak, and through working out I was able to strengthen it considerably and I became more attractive and I felt better about my body.  Working out always felt good and I could say that about almost nothing.
  After my Master’s program finished, I decided to move to Turkey to teach English.  My plan was to move to Turkey for six months and then to move to Belfast and begin a Ph.D. in Disability studies with Margrit Schildick, an author I greatly admired.  I left New York drinking Diplomatico from Venezuela and listening to David Bowie just as I am now.

   In Turkey, I stayed with Ibrahim, Kathrin, and Isa.  Ibrahim is a brilliant Religious Studies Professor who is at the forefront of formulating religiosity in a way that is inclusive, emancipatory, and transformative.  He was a former Russian Orthodox priest, who was the first black student admitted in St. Vladimir’s seminary, and he is now a Sufi sheik who fights exclusion everywhere.  Kathrin is a woman whose hospitality is exquisite and who has a strength that can move mountains.  Isa at this time was an eight-year-old who had a wisdom and inquisitiveness well beyond his years.

  With Isa and sometimes Ibrahim and Kathrin, I visited some of the great Sufi Sheiks of Istanbul. One of these Sheiks was Reik Baba of the Rufai Order, who was a sweet old man with a humorous and open disposition, which was a perfect vehicle for his great love and wisdom.  I also went to a Roma zhikr lead by Sheik Mouson Baba of the Jerrahi order in Uskadar, on the Asian side of Istanbul.  I felt very privileged to be welcomed in the home of Roma Sufis, who face such a stigma in Turkish society, and I was met with the sweetest hospitality.

  At the same time, I lived in between two worlds, between Sufism and punk, and I was quite happy living at the border of these seemly contradictory worlds.  At first glance, it really seems contradictory to be into punk and Sufism, punks tend to be antireligious and atheists, and Sufis  in Turkey are often conservative and look down on the politics and excesses associated with punk.   Sufism is the mystical path of Islam and believes that the world is a manifestation of aspects of Allah and it believes that opening the human heart through mystical experience, and practicing hospitality and love, is the path to meeting the divine.  There are many Sufi orders and they all follow different Saints who each have a different emphasis and who have different practices on how to achieve this goal.   Some Sufi orders believe that it is very important to follow the legal aspects of Islam while there are others that do not stress that very much.

  Punk rock had its roots in the rebellion and energy of garage rock like Iggy and the Stooges, Glam rock like David Bowie, and the experimental music of the New York underground  of the Velvet Underground and Patti Smith.  It first was first made popular and codified by the Sex Pistols in  an intentional marketing ploy by Malcolm McLean and Vivian Westwood.  The Clash was the first band to really take political potentiality of the rebellion of punk seriously and they wrote songs that were anthems that called for social justice and economic equality.  This forever politicized a large segment of punk and made it what it is today.

   Although the Sex Pistols sang about anarchy in the UK, it was just about the anarchy of youth rebellion and destruction and it had nothing to do with the tradition of political anarchy, which is a movement that calls for socialism and economic equality without the corrosive effects of the state.  Anarchism, in the tradition of Bakunin and Kropotkin, believes that the way to social equality is through the mutual cooperation and mutual aid of the workers themselves through free association.  Crass was the first band to take the call to anarchy in the Sex pistols song Anarchy in the UK Seriously and they spawned countless bands the created a punk movement that took its politics seriously and cares a great deal about social juice, animal rights,  and antiracism.

  Anarchism, in the punk culture, at heart, and at its best represents a vision where freedom and true equality coexists.  The goal of anarchism is to have a society where everyone will have the opportunity to truly flourish in a society based on trust and solidarity. Sufism, at its best envisions a life where one truly tries to live a life where love is the focus and purposef life and where one strives to see divine love manifested in everyone and to treat others in accordance with this love.  Looking at Sufism and punk like this, they did not feel so far apart to me.

  I was also a part of world of TEFL teachers in Istanbul.  Within two weeks of flying to Istanbul on a one-way ticket, I landed a job as an English teacher.  I had taught Intro to Philosophy at John Jay College for Criminal Justice for one year, but I had no experience or training as an English teacher.  I worked for Gokdil, which was then a subsidy of the horrible Istanbul chain English Time, and moved into English Time’s house for English teachers in Taksim, the main area for nightlife in Istanbul.  The school I worked for was truly terrible with Turkish co-workers making outlandish accusations like I got undressed in class (I only ever took my jacket off) and Kafkaesque situations like my boss taking away classes from me for reasons he did not know because his boss would not tell him.  It was a lesson in insanity, but I had been in insane situations before, so I tried to roll with the punches, through I did get distraught at times.
  The main people I gravitated towards were Craig and Mariam.  Craig was a gay man in his mid-30s from Scotland, and we would often sneak alcohol into the house, drink, and talk together until late into the night.  We would both do things that set us beyond our comfort levels and expanded our experiences.  Craig went with me to punk and metal shows and I went with him to a gay bar.  He was intelligent, funny, a bit catty, and was particular about who he hanged out with.  We both had gone through a lot of suffering and we both felt a kinship for each other.

  Mariam was a Somali American woman in her mid-twenties who had been through some truly unbelievable experiences.  An example of this was that she had volunteered to teach English in Sudan when she found out that she would be teaching exclusively rich kids.  She then promptly quit her job and she had her visa revoked when she was in Sudan.  Later someone robbed her and attempted to kidnap her on a bus, but she got away and somehow got out of Sudan. 

  When we were not working Mariam and I were most often together, we seemed to understand each other.  She was a Muslim woman who was attracted to women but denied herself because of religious beliefs and was very curious about many things.  We would walk around to different sites in Istanbul and would play Badgamon and smoke cigarettes in the Café Le Jardin, a café that felt and looked like a secret garden.  It was our spot.  Mariam told me not to tell the other teachers besides Craig about the café because she did not want them to come there because she did not want our secret sanctuary to be disturbed.

    During this time I also had a number of crazy experiences.  One of the most memorable I will describe bellow.  During my time in Istanbul I truly felt expanded and felt joyful, but I would drink too much as I still do.  One night I was drinking late into the night at a tattoo studio and I was looking for the last bar open in the area at 4 am.  I found a bar two blocks from the house where I was staying and I ordered a beer.  A woman in her late thirties came  up to me and starts dancing with me.  I was lonely, drunk and into it. All this time she had been drinking a whiskey she had bought before and I was drinking my beer.  She finished her drink and then asked me to buy her a drink.  I had heard of a scam in Istanbul where a woman acts friendly to you and asks you to buy her a drink and then they charge you like 100 times more than the regular price.  I thought that I might be in the middle of this scam and refused. She promptly moved away from me.  I very quickly finished my drink.

   When I went to the bartender to pay, he told me that I owed him 200 Turkish liras, about 100 dollars at the time, because I had bought the woman a drink.  I told him that I had refused to buy her a drink, and she had only been drinking the drink she had before I got there.  I then asked him how much a beer normally costs.  He said 10 Turkish liras.  I said that is too much, it should cost 6 liras but I would pay 10 but no more.  He said that I would have to pay the 200 liras.  At this time I was still strong from going to the gym in New York and all  of the people who worked at the bar  look small to me.  I put my fists forward, gave them a crazy intense, unwavering stare and I told them that I would not fucking pay that and don’t they dare follow me.  I must have truly looked insane and I am sure this bar was not used to getting this kind of reaction from a potential victim.  I did not turn my back from the bartenders and I walked into the street.  None of the men followed me.  Then all of a sudden the woman comes out and picks up a brick.  Through I hated the idea of hitting women I knew that if I turned my back and ran she would probably throw it at me so I took two steps forward.  This startled her and the man who was now standing next to her and they stepped back.  We stood at a stalemate facing each other from 20 feet away for a 10 minutes that felt like an hour.  I only lived two blocks away and I did not want them to know where I live and I did not want to bring the trouble home.  After a while the stalemate was broken when an old man came up to me and said to me in English “Just move along now.”   

   I was really affected  and touched by the contacts I made in the Istanbul punk community.  I initially contacted them through an internet message board called Noizine.  One of the great things about the internet in the pre-Facebook days is that people really united around an interest or music scene and took it seriously. When I knew that I would be moving to Istanbul, I wrote the board and said that I was moving to Istanbul and I wanted to know if there were any shows coming up or if anybody would like to meet up.  I was immediately contacted by Ati, Sezgin, Kerim, Ulas and Yaprak.  In a place like Istanbul, which was a giant city of 15 million people, the punk scene was pretty small, but it was united.  You had hardcore kids, punks, crusties and skinheads all hanging out with each other.  To be a punk in Istanbul meant taking a strong stand against traditional Turkish society with its conservativism and nationalism.  To be a punk in Istanbul you really had to suffer to maintain your identity.  The punks in Istanbul really treated me like family and I am.  We would go to shows together, drink on the street, go to nargile cafes, and have a really great time.

  Istanbul was the first place I heard about RASH (Red and Anarchist Skinheads) and the redskin subculture.   The skinhead subculture originally came from late 1960s Britain when working class British mods, (which was a subculture based one music and fashion), met the Jamaican rudeboys   (a streetwise Jamaican subculture was often the focus of various forms of Jamaican music) and the mods fell in love with Jamaican music, along with the soul, and mod rock, they already listened to. From the beginning, skinhead culture was a multicultural subculture and it is a shame that racists in the 1980s tried to appropriate it.  SHARP (Skinheads Against Racial Prejudice) formed in  New York City response to the Nazis trying to take over the scene was spread across the world most promiently by the influence and efforts of Roddy Moreno of the antifascist oi! band The Oppressed.  RASH   (Red and Anarchist Skinheads) formed in New York City on 1993 response to some conservative (nationalist, homophobic and anti-left) elements among antiracist skinheads and because sometimes so called antiracist skinheads flirted with Nazi images and music.  It is now a world movement and is the most organized  leftwing skinhead organization in the world.  Yaprak and Ulas, who were a couple, were both redskins and they introduced to the subculture of oi, rocksteady and antifascism.  This would have an important impact on me in the future. 

  One story that illustrates the struggle that punks in Istanbul faced was what happened at an outdoor punk festival in Kadikoy. The festival happened in the autumn of 2008, and was organized by the Istanbul punks and some travelling punks from Canada.  The festival was inside some kind of camp, and the energy and comradery was fantastic.  There were fire dancers, punk bands and many different activities. It was a true meeting and sharing between punks from different cultures. One of of one of the bands screamed “Fuck your god” on stage and all hell broke loose.  The local men of the neighborhood started to attack us and then they retreated to get more men and weapons .  They were gearing up for a mob attack. The police came and cancelled the show.  The police ended up throwing all the Turkish punks out of the camp but my friends could speak English and pretended to be Canadian.

  One of the reasons I began my trip to Istanbul was that I wanted to change my life, in particular my hang-ups on sexuality and relationships over my disability.  I would have to say that I succeeded in this, or rather that I was blessed with an encounter that changed me indescribably.  At this point in my life, I had only had sex with sex workers in New York.  This has helped me get over my initial hang-ups over sex, but it had failed to change me socially.  I was still needy, desperate, awkward, and overbearing.  My idea of romantic relationships was over-idealized and they seemed impossibly out of reach.  I still really did not believe that anyone would want to have sex with me if I was not paying for it. As I said before, working out was an important practice in helping me feel comfortable with my body, but it did not help me with the self-confidence and the approach of the other needed in a relationship.

   In New York, I had tried going on a series of awkward OkCupid dates.  While some of them have seemed to have a little hope in the beginning, none of them ever amounted to anything.  The lack of any success whatsoever in these dates sometimes drove me crazy and made me depressed, but I never gave up.  When I moved to Istanbul, I continued this quest for love, or at least sex, on OkCupid.  I also went to to the bars in Taksim, which at that time were obsessed with grunge and early 90s alternative rock, with the hopes of meeting people.  Sometimes I would hang out with a group of pop punks at a tattoo shop because I was not allowed to drink in my apartment.   On OkCupid in Istanbul, I chatted with some nice women and had some interesting conversations, but nothing really happened until I met Yasmin.  The encounter that I will describe below only really happened once, but I can’t emphasize enough how much of an impact it had on me.  This encounter blessed me in a powerful way and changed my life forever but I will never be able to thank Yasmin, for reasons I will describe below.

  I first started communicating with Yasmin on OkCupid before I left for Istanbul.  We were each other’s top matches on OkCupid at 94 percent.  We exchanged some emails online and things seemed to be going well.  She was 40 years old at the time and I was 29.  I have to admit that I have always been attracted to sexy older women and she was very sexy.  She had lived in Sweden for many years and she had travelled quite a bit.  In her past she had been involved in the alternative and punk music scene and she remained a free spirit.  In Istanbul she taught English at a High School on the Asian side.  She was married to a Swedish man and she had two kids with him.  She hated Sweden because she thought the people were too cold and she was glad to be back in Turkey.

  At first it was hard for us to meet because of her husband and her kids.  She had separated from her husband, but they lived in the same house, so it was rather difficult.  One weekend her husband went with her kids to Izmir for the weekend, so we were finally able to meet.  We arranged to meet at a heavy metal concert in Beyoglu, near the Galatasaray high school.  She showed up with a friend of hers about the same age.  At the show, we really connected and I was having a great time with her. We began kissing and making out.  I tried to touch her breasts, which were big and plump, from inside her shirt but she told me not to do that in public.  As we were leaving I was ready to walk back to my flat when she told me that I should come to stay at her house but that I shouldn’t expect anything.  I was excited, but a bit shy.  I told her that I wasn’t that experienced because of my disability. She was very understanding and said it didn’t matter.  At that time I was a fast and sloppy kisser.  She told me that I should kiss her more softly and slowly and I listened to her.  I was thankful for the advice.  When we got back to her place, we lay on the couch and kissed and talked.  I then began to caress, kiss and suck on her breasts.  It was lovely.

  Later we moved in to the bedroom.  She told me that we couldn’t have sex because she was on her period.  In my opinion I think that too much focus is put on the penetrative act when there is so much more to sex than just fucking.  We explored each other’s bodies and kissed softly and tenderly and passionately.  I then licked and kissed her feet.  She gave me a blow job and told me to cum on her tits and I then fingered her to orgasm.  She said she couldn’t believe that I wasn’t that experienced because no one had kissed her feet like I did.  We ended up sleeping in each other’s arms.  The whole night was an affirmation.
  In the morning we had coffee and breakfast and she showed me pictures from when she was younger and from when she lived in Sweden.  She really had lived a full and vibrant life.  She told me that she could see that I was a person who lived with adventure and passion. 

  Because she lived with her husband, we were only able to see each other one more time.  We meet briefly for a coffee by the Marmara Sea in Kadikoy.  We had a nice conversation but it was short because she had to go home to her family.  She later reconciled with her husband and I never saw her again.  We had a brief email exchange and she told me that she wished me a life of  journey, and that I was made for a great one.
  Yasmin was the first person really to see me as a sexual being and to affirm me body and soul.  My encounter with her changed me forever.  Before her, I never saw myself as a person who could be desired, especially not by someone of Yasmin’s caliber, but after that night I knew it was possible.  Although I still struggle with sexuality and disability, I am definitely not the same person I was before the night before I met her.  Meeting her was without a doubt a life changing experience.

  After being in Turkey for three months, it was necessary to go over the border to Bulgaria and come back to renew my tourist visa because I was working illegally.  I was getting ready to do this when an unfortunate incident happened.  One night I was with a bunch of punks drinking on the streets of Cihangir, an affluent district in Beyoglu just down the hill from the Galatasaray high school. These punks included Ati, Ege, Charged John (a street punk who is the founder of the important Istanbul punk band Poster-iti), Taylan (a straight edge punk who ran a distro), Destan (who I would become very good friends with years later), and Fish (a half Turkish half American crustie who lived in Philly).  At first the vibe was awesome; we were all drinking together and having a great time.  All of a sudden, a local conservative started screaming at us to leave.  He then returned with his friends and we could see that one of them has a knife.

   We left, but we felt embarrassed that a couple of guys could get a whole group of punks to leave.  We then moved closer to Istikal Caddesi, the main street in Taksim and sat on the walls of the Galatasaray High School.  At first everything was fine, we continued drinking and chatting.  Then a group of Turkish crows, guys who wear a mullet with spikes on top, approached us.  The began talking with us and I was wasted so I enjoyed talking with them and I wasn’t as careful as I should have been.  They kept on giving me the traditional Turkish kiss of peace which is two kisses on the cheek.  This was very common for both genders to do and it didn’t feel strange to me.  Sometime passed and they left.  I then felt into my pocket and realized that they had taken my wallet.  I was enraged and I ran down the hill screaming like a maniac  Taylan ran after me and told me to stop.  I realized it was no use.  I ended up going home with no money or credit card realizing that I would have to go to Bulgaria soon.

  I had to go to Bulgaria but I had no money for the bus.  I went to Ibrahim’s and Kathrin’s house and I asked Kathrin if I could borrow money for the bus ticket.   She lent me the money for the bus ticket and she gave me a little extra money.  I then went to the bus station and I boarded the bus.  On the bus I read, slept and listened to music.  We then reached the Turkish border and the Turkish border police entered the bus.  They went through every passport until they got to mine.  There was a problem, I had overstayed my three month tourist visa by three days.  They wanted 200 liras,  but I didn’t have it.  I called my boss David Fischer at the police station and he told me there was nothing he could do.  The police officer then yelled at me and told me if I didn’t pay the fine that I would be banned from Turkey for five years.  I said I didn’t have the money and he scanned my passport and entered something on the computer.  I then returned to the bus and explained what had happened. Without me asking, the bus the raised the money for me to pay the fine.  I returned to the police station and told him that I had the money.  He told me that what had been entered into the computer could not be undone.  I was devasted. 
  At that point I thought the best option was to go to Sofia to the US Embassy but I had very little money and my ticket was only to a small town in Bulgaria.  The driver then informed me that if I didn’t have the money to go to Sofia that he would let me off right there on the border.  The border between Turkey and Bulgaria is literally a no man’s land with about a half mile of literally nothing with border police on both sides and no towns anywhere near.  It was also November in the middle of the night and it was really cold.  I told the bus driver that he could not leave me there, please could he take me to the next town or something, please literally anywhere but there.  The bus then raised the money for me to go to Sofia.  I was extremely humbled and thankful and I fell asleep on my way to Sofia.

  We arrived in Sofia at 5 o’clock in the morning and I smoked cigarettes and drank cappuccino at the bus station until I knew the embassy would be open.  I went outside to hail a cab, and like an idiot I bypassed a bunch of disinterested cab drivers and went straight to the taxi driver who was smiling and waving at me.  He had a bunch of Orthodox memorabilia and I took this as a good sign; I was wrong.  When I got to the embassy the amount (which turned out to be 10 times more than it should be) left me literally penniless.  The date was November 4, 2008.  I asked the attendant at the embassy who had won the election last night and she told me that Obama had.  I wasn’t crazy about either candidate but I was glad a black person had been elected president and McCain seemed like a maniac. I explained to her my situation and I told her that I had been working in Turkey but I had been banned from Turkey and that I was stranded in Bulgaria and I was completely broke.  She proceeded to call my friends and family and ask them to Western Union me money.  My mom and Sheikha Fariha sent me some money so I got something to eat and I went to an internet café to look for hostels.  I chose the Art Hostel.

    At this moment I had a powerful experience that would affect me for the rest of my life.  I had lost everything.  I had a life in Istanbul that I really loved, with my friends, the punk community, and with the various Sufi orders.  I was probably the happiest I had ever been and in a minute it was all gone.  Sure, I had problems with the school I was working at and it was shady as hell, but I really liked the group of teenagers I ended up teaching and they really liked me.  I can recall one time when a student said, “We love you teacher” and the whole class agreed and another student said “At first we thought you were crazy because of your eyes , but we love you.”   In Istanbul I really went through some monumental changes, the most important being my experience with Yasmin, but I was also set on the path of travel, and I was exposed to a very fascinating culture. Indeed I am still following the path that began in Istanbul all those years ago.
    I was really devastated to lose all I had in Istanbul but at the same time I felt completely free.  I had nothing more to lose and I could do anything.  It was time for me to pick up the pieces and to begin again and I could do whatever the fuck I wanted to.  There is a real power in knowing you can lose everything and shit can really hit the fan and you will be ok and can start again.  I was presented with a loss and an opportunity.  I was stuck in the middle of Bulgaria and I had to make a plan, and a fucking fantastic plan.  I had never travelled Europe and I was going to use this opportunity.  I was broke in the middle of Eastern Europe with no credit card but I was ok.  I felt free